My Alphabet Quilt Blog of the Month Part 2B

I know that I said the machine appliqué lesson was next, but my machine was acting up and I had to have it cleaned and checked--thanks Kurt! So, in the meantime, I've been working on getting more blocks ready. As you can see on Amy's directions that are listed at the bottom of the placement sheets, she starts at Step 5. You have already prepared your appliqué pieces and are ready to fuse them into place.

Amy has done a terrific job giving you the order of placement for the appliqué pieces. However, I found that in some cases it helps to pre-construct some units. Place the pieces on the Appliqué Presser Sheet or the release paper from the fusible web, press in place and they will release when cool. I also have found that I like to mark some of the detail lines before I fuse the pieces together.

So, with that said, here are my hints for pre-constructing and pre-marking the first eight blocks...................

Front of bus
Pre-construct
Mirror supports and mirrors
Inside and outside of all lights
Top of bus and windshield
Bottom of bus and grills
Pre-mark
Detail lines for abc

A
Pre-construct
Paintbrush and letter a
Face and hair
Collar and bow
Pre-mark
Nose, mouth, eye position, detail lines of hair ties and bows

B
Pre-construct
Hat and brim
Face and hair
Pre-mark
Nose, eye position, bubbles, and bandage detail lines

C
Pre-construct
Camera pieces
Pre-mark
Mouth, eye, detail lines for fingers and bow

D
Pre-construct
Top of hair, headband pieces, and reflector
Face and right and left hair
Pre-mark
Nose, mouth, and eye position

E
Pre-construct
Outside and inside of earphones and earphone wire
Pre-mark
Nose, mouth, and eye position

F
Pre-construct
Frog and frog eyes
Pre-mark
Nose, frog mouth, frog chin, eye positions for girl and frog, and bows

G
Pre-construct
Goggle, goggle lenses, goggles straps, and buckle
Pre-mark
Nose, mouth, and eye position

Cut the fabric for the backgrounds
From your background fabric, cut seven strips 11 1/2". Cut each of these strips into four blocks 9 1/2" x 11 1/2". I like to treat my backgrounds with a couple layers of spray starch to make them extra crisp so that they naturally act like they have been stabilized.

Follow step 8 of Amy's directions
Read the instructions directly below the block placement sheet for any specific instructions for Step 8. On a light table, put a 9 1/2" x 11 1/2" fabric block background right side up over a block placement sheet. There should be approximately 1/2" of extra fabric around the block. Place applique pieces and/or pre-constructed units in place on fabric background aligning with placement sheet. Fuse into place.

There is lots of preparation for the applique to go smoothly, but well worh the effort. I will give you the order in which Iwill applique the pieces next as well as post photos of the actual applique process (as soon as I can find one of my 3 pairs of magnifier glasses).

Hunting for my glasses so that I can be back soon,
Lynda

My Alphabet Quilt Blog of the Month Part 2a

I'm sooooo excited for My Alphabet Quilt Blog of the Month!!!

Because there is so much to talk about this first month, I am going to break the information up into a few blogs. I have a few of My Alphabet Quilt pattern and book and two different kits to get you started. The first kit is a Skintones Kit--I have one available. It includes 4 different mottled fabrics for the faces and hands. These will be the exact fabrics that I will be using, in fact, I accidentally used the wrong side of the fleshtone fabric for my artist's face--ooops, but it turned out fine and it gave me another choice. The second kit is the background/border kit which includes the white-on-white for the block backgrounds and borders, as well as the turquoise and the red--I have a few of these available. The fabrics may change but I will try to stay true to the colors. If you would like the pattern or the kits, please email me--address below.

Getting organized:

Pre-washing your fabric is a personal choice. We hardly ever pre-wash because we start projects at work and don't take the time. I am not pre-washing my fabric and I realize that the fabrics could possibly run. I will use Shout Color Catchers when I wash the quilt and not allow the quilt to soak.

Cut placement sheets and pattern sheets apart. Set placement sheets aside for now. There are many fusible products on the market. This project requires that you have a least one side covered in paper that you can trace on. The two that I use are Wonder Under and Steam-a-Seam 2 Lite. I like them both, although SaS 2 Lite creates a better bond because there is more fusible that comes in contact with the fabric. Whatever fusible product you use, be sure to read and follow the directions on the package.

Tracing the pattern pieces:

Place your fusible product over your pattern sheet with the paper side up. Leave at least 1/4" between pattern pieces. Using a Sewline pencil in black, I trace all of the pieces from the pattern sheets onto my fusible web. I cut them out roughly--DO NOT CUT ON PENCIL LINE, but at least 1/8" away from it. I place them in a repurposed spiral notebook that I have marked with the alphabet letters, one set of pattern pieces per page.

If you want a softer feel for your appliqué blocks, trim out the inside of your fusible pattern pieces, about 1/8" inside of penciled line. I especially recommend this on any pieces that have many layers such as C is for Camera. Save these larger cutout pieces to trace smaller patterns, therefore saving on the amount of fusible that you will be needing. Be especially careful when trimming out the letters. Leave a bridge to connect the inner cutout pieces in letters such as "a and b" (see letter b below).

Some light fabrics placed over dark fabrics (such as the letter "m" where the dark fabric might show through the light skin) would benefit from lining the light fabric. To line the light fabric, iron a piece of fusible web to the wrong side of the light fabric, peel the paper off and iron to a separate piece of white fabric. Then treat this bonded fabric as one fabric. I will let you know which pieces I have lined.

Press fusible pattern pieces to fabric:

Place the pattern piece on the wrong side of your chosen fabric and press according to the fusible web instructions. Let cool. Now, cut out the pattern pieces on the pencil line. I find the Fiskar's Curved Scissors allows me to cut smoothly and accurately and can flip over to cut inside or outside curves.

Pattern Placement and Details:

This is where the Applique Presser Sheet (APS) pays for itself! Place the Letter Placement Sheet on an ironing board. Place the APS over it. Read the instructions directly below the block placement sheet for specific instructions from step 5 (refer back to the main Instruction Sheet for any steps not listed). Remove the paper backing from the fused pattern pieces. Place them in numerical oder on the APS using the placement sheet as your guide. Press as you go and the pieces will stick to the APS. When all pieces are placed, press again. Let cool. (Hmmm-I just noticed that I lost a bow for her braid-back to the ironing board).

Mark the detail lines and eye dots with a Sewline Pencil in a color that contrasts with the fabric. Peel the applique away from the APS. Place the entire piece on your background rectangle and press into place.

If you don't have an APS, lay your background fabric over the placement sheet and center it. Place your applique pieces in order on the background and press into place. A light box might be helpful for placement, but do not press your pieces on it. Mark the detail lines and eye dots as described above.

Next up, Part 2b, Applique

If you have any questions as we go along please add a comment to the end of the blog entry or email me at millilyn@aol.com.

Back at you soon,

Lynda

My Alphabet Quilt Blog of the Month

One of my favorite patterns is Amy Bradley's My Alphabet Quilt.

Amy's daughter Ashley Heryer, wrote the story for her daughter, and Amy illustrated it with quilt blocks. I am going to present it as a Blog of the Month like I did with Amy's Happy Halloween pattern. (I started the Blog earlier, but I let if fall off. After receiving several requests, I am reviving it. I am reposting the first two months and for those who have already started, I will be posting the third month shortly.)

It will be an 8 month program. Each month, for seven months I will present 4 blocks and give you hints, techniques, and notions that will help you complete the alphabet blocks and then month 8 will be set aside for borders, quilting, and binding. To get a general idea of how it works, click on the Happy Halloween icon on the sidebar.

Here is a close-up of block B.

I'd love for you to join me!

Happy Stitching,

Lynda

My Alphabet Quilt Blog of the Month, Part 2B

I know that I said the machine appliqué lesson was next, but my machine was acting up and I had to have it cleaned and checked--thanks Kurt! So, in the meantime, I've been working on getting more blocks ready. As you can see on Amy's directions that are listed at the bottom of the placement sheets, she starts at Step 5. You have already prepared your appliqué pieces and are ready to fuse them into place.

Amy has done a terrific job giving you the order of placement for the appliqué pieces. However, I found that in some cases it helps to pre-construct some units. Place the pieces on the Appliqué Presser Sheet or the release paper from the fusible web, press in place and they will release when cool. I also have found that I like to mark some of the detail lines before I fuse the pieces together.

So, with that said, here are my hints for the first eight blocks...................

Letter a
I would mark the bow knot and tails; the eyes, nose, mouth; and the circles for the hair fasteners. I pre-constructed the paintbrush, and the collar and bow.

Letter b
I marked the eyes, nose, Band-Aid lines, fingers and bubble circles. I pre-constructed the hat, hat brim, and hair; and the hand, thumb, and bubble blower as one unit. After fusing pieces to the background, finish marking the bubble circles.

Letter c
Mark the eye, mouth, hair bow, and fingers. Pre-construct the camera as one unit.

Letter d
Mark the eyes, nose, and mouth. Pre-construct the headbands, top of hair, and reflector. You can also pre- construct the hair right, hair left, and face.

Letter e
Mark the eyes, nose, and mouth. Pre-construct the outside and inside of both earphones with the earphone wire.

Letter f
Mark the girl's eyes, nose, mouth and hair bows. Also mark the frog's eyes, mouth, and chin. Pre-construct the hair, frog, and frog eyes as a unit.

Letter g
Mark the eyes, nose, and mouth. Pre-construct the goggle lenses, goggles, goggle strap, and buckle as a unit.

Bus front
Mark "abc" on the top of the bus. Construct the top of the bus, the windshield, the mirror supports, and the mirrors as one unit. Construct the bottom of the bus, the bumper, the wheels, the stop sign support, and the Stop sign as a second unit.

Cut the fabric for the backgrounds.
From your background fabric, cut seven strips 11 1/2". Cut each of these strips into four blocks 9 1/2" x 11 1/2". I like to treat my backgrounds with a couple layers of Spray Starch to make them extra crisp so that they naturally act like they have been stabilized.

Follow step 8 of Amy's directions. Read the instructions directly below the block placement sheet for any instructions specific for Step 8. On a light table, put a 9 1/2 x 11 1/2" fabric block background right side up over a block placement sheet. There should be approximately 1/2" of extra fabric around the block. Place appliqué pieces and/or pre-constructed units in place on fabric background aligning with placement sheet. Fuse into place.

Lots of preparation for the applique to go smoothly, but well worth the effort. I will give you the order in which I will applique the pieces next.

We were able to put together a button kit for the eyes. The kit contains 50 small black buttons and one larger black button for the eye under the magnifying glass. It is $8.99 and is in limited supply. Click here for more information.

I'll be back soon,
Lynda

My Alphabet Quilt Blog of the Month, Part 2a

I'm sooooo excited to start My Alphabet Quilt Blog of the Month!!!

Because there is so much to talk about this first month, I am going to break the information up into a few blogs. We have made available on our website the My Alphabet Quilt pattern and book and two different kits to get you started. The first kit is our Skintones Kit. It includes 4 different mottled fabrics for the faces and hands. These will be the exact fabrics that I will be using, in fact, I accidentally used the wrong side of the fleshtone fabric for my artist's face--ooops, but it turned out fine and it gave me another choice. The second kit is the background/border kit which includes the white-on-white for the block backgrounds and borders, as well as the turquoise and the red. The fabrics may change but I will try to stay true to the colors. For more information on the kits and patterns, click here. There are also links on that page to the notions and tools that I will refer to.

Getting organized:

Pre-washing your fabric is a personal choice. We hardly ever pre-wash because we start projects at work and don't take the time. I am not pre-washing my fabric and I realize that the fabrics could possibly run. I will use Shout Color Catchers when I wash the quilt and not allow the quilt to soak.

Cut placement sheets and pattern sheets apart. Set placement sheets aside for now. There are many fusible products on the market. This project requires that you have a least one side covered in paper that you can trace on. The two that I use are Wonder Under and Steam-a-Seam 2 Lite. I like them both, although SaS 2 Lite creates a better bond because there is more fusible that comes in contact with the fabric. Whatever fusible product you use, be sure to read and follow the directions on the package.

Tracing the pattern pieces:

Place your fusible product over your pattern sheet with the paper side up. Leave at least 1/4" between pattern pieces. Using a Sewline Pencil in black, I trace all of the pieces from the pattern sheets onto my fusible web. I cut them out roughly--DO NOT CUT ON PENCIL LINE, but at least 1/8" away from it. I place them in a repurposed spiral notebook that I have marked with the alphabet letters, one set of pattern pieces per page.

If you want a softer feel for your appliqué blocks, trim out the inside of your fusible pattern pieces, about 1/8" inside of penciled line. I especially recommend this on any pieces that have many layers such as C is for Camera. Save these larger cutout pieces to trace smaller patterns, therefore saving on the amount of fusible that you will be needing. Be especially careful when trimming out the letters. Leave a bridge to connect the inner cutout pieces in letters such as "a and b" (see letter b below).



Some light fabrics placed over dark fabrics (such as the letter "m" where the dark fabric might show through the light skin) would benefit from lining the light fabric. To line the light fabric, iron a piece of fusible web to the wrong side of the light fabric, peel the paper off and iron to a separate piece of white fabric. Then treat this bonded fabric as one fabric. I will let you know which pieces I have lined.

Press fusible pattern pieces to fabric:

Place the pattern piece on the wrong side of your chosen fabric and press according to the fusible web instructions. Let cool. Now, cut out the pattern pieces on the pencil line. I find the Fiskar's Curved Scissor allows me to cut smoothly and accurately and can flip over to cut inside or outside curves.




Pattern Placement and Details:

This is where the Applique Presser Sheet (APS) pays for itself! Place the Letter Placement Sheet on an ironing board. Place the APS over it. Read the instructions directly below the block placement sheet for specific instructions from step 5 (refer back to the main Instruction Sheet for any steps not listed). Remove the paper backing from the fused pattern pieces. Place them in numerical oder on the APS using the placement sheet as your guide. Press as you go and the pieces will stick to the APS. When all pieces are placed, press again. Let cool. (Hmmm-I just noticed that I lost a bow for her braid-back to the ironing board).

Mark the detail lines and eye dots with a Sewline pencil in a color that contrasts with the fabric. Peel the applique away from the APS. Place the entire piece on your background rectangle and press into place.

If you don't have an APS, lay your background fabric over the placement sheet and center it. Place your applique pieces in order on the background and press into place. A light box might be helpful for placement, but do not press your pieces on it. Mark the detail lines and eye dots as described above.

Next up, Part 2b, Applique

If you have any questions as we go along please add a comment to the end of the blog entry or email me at millilyn@aol.com.

Back at you soon,

Lynda

Baby Boy Blue in a Box and My First Favorite Notion

I'm going to share with you two of my favorite things--my favorite baby and my favorite notion. Here is my favorite baby! His grandma, Nancy, popped him in this cardboard box lined with a quilt that matched his outfit! He was very content (as long as grandma kept moving) while grandma carried him through the store to say a big hello to everyone. Kian is Nancy's youngest daughter, Laura's newest boy. He has two big brothers who absolutely adore him. It's a treat for us all when Laura stops in to visit or to work. Thanks, Kian, for letting me get a quick photo!

Now, on to my favorite notions. One of my very favorite's (could not live without) is an Applique Pressing Sheet. This double-sided sheet is made from an ultra high temperature fabric that is coated with non-stick Polylon. We carry it in two sizes--13 x 17" and 18 x 20". The sheet has many uses. It can be used as a craft and painting surface. Paint and glue peel off easily when dry. It can also be used in the oven to bake shrink-art, clay, and salt dough projects. MY FAVORITE USE, though, is for fusing applique pieces together. The transparent construction allows me to see my pattern through the sheet to use as a placement guide while I fuse overlapping pieces together into one unit. Fused fabrics peel right off the sheet. I also use it to protect my ironing board cover when I am fusing fabric. I have both sizes and I've also cut a second large one into two smaller pieces.

Call the store, or check our website for pricing and availability. If we don't have them in stock, leave a request because we order both sizes often.

If there is a notion you would like to recommend or to learn about, please leave me a comment. All of the notions that I will be showing you will be great to have if you join me for the Alphabet Quilt Blog of the Month.

Happy Stitching,

Lynda

My Alphabet Quilt Blog of the Month

We returned from International Quilt Market on Sunday. We had a wonderful time, but I was afraid that I wasn't going to be able to attend, because I had re-injured my left foot and knew that I absolutely couldn't walk the entire market. Then I checked in to renting an electric scooter and found out that I could take it back to my room and virtually anywhere downtown that I would want to go. Hooray!!!!! I would have been so disappointed since I have attended every Quilt Market except for 1981 when my daughter was born. The scooter was wonderful and I only came close to demolishing one jewelry booth--no empathy shown by that woman at all. : (

One product that we got really excited about is Amy Bradley's My Alphabet Quilt pattern and book.

Amy's daughter Ashley Heryer, wrote the story for her daughter, and Amy illustrated it with quilt blocks. I am going to present it as a Blog of the Month like I did with Amy's Happy Halloween pattern. It will be an 8 month program. Each month, for seven months I will present 4 blocks and give you hints, techniques, and notions that will help you complete the alphabet blocks and then month 8 will be set aside for borders, quilting, and binding. To get a general idea of how it works, click on the Happy Halloween icon on the sidebar. Below is a close-up of block B.

I'm still working out the details but will let you know ASAP! I'd love for you to join me!

Happy Stitching,

Lynda

Happy Halloween Blog of the Month, Part 7

WOW! WOW! WOW! Ann Petersen, an award winning quilter, finished quilting the Happy Halloween quilt and now it only needs to be bound and buttons stitched on for the eyes.

For the back, I wanted to use a cute Halloween fabric that we designed. It needed to be pieced with a vertical seam. I bought a little extra fabric (4 1/4 yds) because I wanted the characters to be spaced evenly and semi-lined up. It wasn't until I was sewing on the binding that I saw that Ann matched the two pieces exactly!!! Ann is truly an awesome piecer and quilter.

We used Warm and Natural Batting which is a nice choice for a quilt that will be displayed on a wall. First she ditched the quilt next to the sashing strips, squares, and borders using Madeira Monofil (Smoke) in the top and an orange Aurifil (to match the backing) in the bobbin . Then she outline stitched the characters, including the features, and around the Happy Halloween letters, also with the Madeira.

She free motioned quilted some soft curves in the block backgrounds using two shades of Superior Rainbows, #848 Buncha Violets for the darkest background and #847 Fuchsia Fusion for the others. Rainbows are lovely variegated threads where the color changes about every inch. They also have a beautiful sheen.

She meandered the green Happy Halloween banner with Superior Rainbows #820 Lime Squeeze and added a couple of spiderwebs in the corners. Ann used Superior King Tut #977 Ebony to quilt bats in the sashing strips and stars in the sashing squares.

Spider webs were quilted in the border. When quilting on the darkest background squares, the sashing, and the borders, Ann used black Aurifil in the bobbin. This way, if the tension isn't perfect, there won't be little dots of a different color thread popping to the top. All of these threads work best with a 90/14 Topstitch needle. (Can you see the backing seam?)

I stitched on buttons for the eyes as the pattern suggests. The larger buttons (approx 1/4") were used for Mummy, Bat, Mr. Monster, and Skeleton. All of the rest have smaller buttons (approx 1/8"). Because this quilt will most likely be a wall hanging the buttons could be glued on. They could also be embroidered or beaded. I hid the knot under the button and stitched the button on by stitching through to the back. My backing fabric is busy enough that it is very hard to see where these stitches are. I stitched through each button three times. I poked a pin through to the back to mark the position for the second eye, and I traveled my needle from the first eye button to the second under the backing fabric. I stitched through the button three times, made my knot, and then traveled the needle through the backing fabric for a short way and trimmed the thread.

Yeah! We are almost finished. I'll do a binding tutorial next and then it will be time to hang the quilt in plenty of time for Halloween decorating.

Happy quilting,

Lynda

P.S. If you are interested in a thread packet for the 5 threads we used, please email me. Also, we have 5 button packets that contain the two different sized buttons available on a first come, first served basis for $6.95. Please email me if you are interested. millilyn@aol.com

Happy Halloween Blog of the Month, Part 6

Hello again Happy Halloween friends,

It's time to get this quilt together. Your character blocks should be trimmed and ready to be sashed. To begin, let's trim the Happy Halloween strip if you didn't already. I don't know about you, but that was a lot of applique. Now, my advice to you is 'measure twice, cut once'. Follow the pattern directions and place the HH strip over the placement sheet. Mark the final trim line on all four corners. I then folded my strip in half, matched the 4 corners and marked my cutting lines. I measured the height in several spots to make sure it was consistently 11 1/2". I measured the length to make sure it was consistently 20 1/4" (40 1/2" unfolded). I found I had to add 1/4" to make the 40 1/2". When you are sure of your measurements and that the corners are square, cut to size.

Vertical Sashing
Cut your sashing and setting squares, following pattern directions. Stitch vertical sashing to all applique pieces as shown on pattern and press all seams toward the sashing strip.

Horizontal Sashing
Years ago, I learned a tip that makes sewing squares together so much easier. When stitching a quilt of all squares together, first identify the lengthwise grain of each square. The lengthwise grain has the least amount of stretch. Sew the squares together matching the lengthwise grains. This leaves the unsewn edge with all crosswise grain, which allows for the stretch and/or ease you may need to match the seams perfectly. I applied this hint to the crosswise sashing strips. Find the lengthwise grain of the sashing squares and stitch this edge to the sashing strip. This leaves the unsewn edge with all crosswise grain, making it easy to match all the vertical strips. Stitch the quilt top together. Press seams towards the sashing strips.

First Border
Press the top from the wrong side, following pattern directions. Flip to the right side and make sure that there are no tucks in the seams. Follow pattern directions to cut and stitch border strips together. If using a stripe, try to stitch the seam so that width of stripe is similar in width to the others.

Measure the quilt from top to bottom at center of quilt.

It should measure 54 1/2". Mine measured 54 1/4". I measured in a few other spots and the measurement was consistently 54 1/4".

If your measurements are not consistent, average the measurements together and cut your strips accordingly. Cut 2 border strips to the size that your quilt top measured. Fold your top into fourths and mark with pins. Fold Border 1 into fourths and mark with pins. Pin Border 1 to quilt top, matching pins. Stitch seam with Border 1 on top. Work on one quarter at a time, leaving pins in position until you get to them. Press seams towards outer edge of quilt top. Measure quilt from side to side. It should measure 46 1/2". Adjust your measurement if necessary. Match and pin quarters, stitch and press as before.

Outer Border
Measure and cut side borders as before. Match and pin quarter sections. If you cut your outer border strips on the lengthwise grain as pattern suggests you will probably need to ease your quilt top to fit the border. There is a lot of stretch in the outer edges of the top, since it is all crosswise grain. Mark and pin quarter sections accurately. Stitch with the quilt top closest to the sewing machine bed. The feed dogs will help ease any fullness into the border. Keep pins in place until you get to them. Press seam to outer edge of quilt top. Repeat for top and bottom borders. Yeah--a completed quilt top!

Quilting

We are now ready for quilting. I quilt with my wallet--overheard in a class we taught. : ) So, mine will be going to one of our long-arm quilters, but I'll be back in a few days with some hints. In the meantime, choose and prepare your backing.

Backing
With a crosswise seam, you will need 3 1/2 yds of fabric for your backing. If you want a lengthwise seam, you will need 4 yards. If you are using a directional Halloween print (and there are soooooo many cute ones out there) you will probably want a lengthwise seam. Unfold your backing fabric and fold in half crosswise. Cut along this fold to make two pieces. Place these pieces right sides together and stitch one side along the selvage edge. I usually stitch with about a 1" seam and then go back and trim off the selvages. Press this seam open.

Well, it's been fun appliqueing and piecing the top with you. I can't wait to decorate for Halloween and put my quilt on the wall. I'll be back to give you some quilting tips in the next few days and then a lesson in binding.

Until then, happy stitching,
Lynda

Happy Halloween Blog of the Month, Part 5

Hi Happy Halloween friends,

We are almost finished with the applique and will be ready to start constructing the quilt. I saved the Mummy for last because I thought it looked so hard. In reality it was one of the easiest blocks to applique. The Mummy is just six applique pieces--head, eyes, eyelids, nose, and eyebrows. I sprayed and ironed the background fabrics (the darkest background for the Mummy and the green for the Happy Halloween words) with spray starch to stiffen them so they would act as a stabilizer. I used my lined white fabric for the Mummy.

Again, build small sections on your Applique Presser Sheet before combining the pieces together. For Mummy build 1 section: eyes, eyelids, and nose. After fusing the sections together, use the placement guide to fuse them into place. Mark all detail lines. I used my Sewline black pencil and a sunny window to see the lines. Fuse Mummy to the background.

Stitch all of the detail lines. I stitched the bandages with a straight stitch--I did not need to stitch over the lines. Be sure to bring all of the threads to the back and tie off as you go. I found a neat tool to help with this. It is a very fine crochet hook. You punch it through from the back to the front, wrap the thread around the tiny hook and pull to the back. It took a bit to get used to wrapping it correctly, but I love it now!

Blanket stitch the head. Stitch his left eye from the top right lid around to the nose. Stitch the right eye from the right side of his nose around the top of the lid and down to the nose. Stitch across bottom of eyelid and then the nose. I stitched his mouth with a very narrow and short zig-zag stitch. As you can see in the photo, I forgot to stitch his eyebrows.

Now for the Happy Halloween word panel. Tape paper pattern together and cut out on the trim line. Press it flat and then press it in half horizontally and vertically. Do the same to the green background fabric. The green fabric will be larger than the paper pattern. It will be trimmed to the correct size after the applique is finished. Pin the pattern to an ironing board and pin the green fabric over the top, matching all of the pressed lines. Place and fuse the letters from right to left, following the placement pattern that shows through the green fabric. Applique in place. My black letter fabric frayed a bit while I was sewing, but I think it added a little character.

Press the word panel flat and place it over the placement sheet. Mark the final trim line on all four corners lightly with a pencil. Double check that the measurements are 11 1/2" x 40 1/2". Square and trim using a rotary cutter and a ruler.

Follow placement sheets for trimming all 12 appliqued blocks or make a plastic template that measures 9 x 11 1/2". Place template over block with bottom edge of template along bottom edge of applique. Mark corners and trim with a rotary cutter and ruler.

Trim all 12 blocks and we are now ready to construct the quilt. See you in a few days!

Happy stitching,

Lynda

Happy Halloween Blog of the Month, part 3b

OK, now on to the stitching. Mr. Pumpkinhead has the most intricate stitching so far, but no worries, I'll lead you through. Let's start with Witch.

The stitching order I used for Witch:

1. Top of hat
2. Top edge of hat brim
3. Hat band
4. Hair*
5. Head
6. Shirt
7. Eyes and eyelids**
8. Nose
9. Bat (I used a shorter, narrower stitch for the bat)

*I decreased the width of the zig-zag stitch as I stitched the points of her hair. As you get closer to the point, decrease the stitch width one point, stitch a few stitches, decrease the width another point, stitch a few stitches. After finishing the point, start increasing the width a point at a time until you are back to your regular width. I hope you can see this on this close-up.

Each eye, eyelid, and nose combination seems to need a little different treatment. Trace the stitching path with your finger to see what works best. For example, for the witch I stitched the bottom of her left eye first. I then stitched her right eye from her nose, around the lid and back down to the nose. Lastly, I stitched the top of her left lid and then across the bottom of her eyelids.

The stitching order I used for Vampire:

1. Right and left shoulder
2. Right and left collar sections
3. Right and left sides of bow tie
4. Bowtie knot
5. Bottom of ears
6. Head
7. Hair
8. Eyes and eyelids*
9. Nose
10. Fangs

*For Vampire's eyes, I first stitched the bottom edge of the eyelid and then around the entire outer edge of eye and lid.

Mr. Pumpkinhead has the most applique challenges. Here is my stitching order:

1. Shirt, right side and left side
2. Neck, right side and left side
3. Face #4
4. Face #5
5. Face #6
6. Right side of bow
7. Left side of bow
8. Bow knot
9. Face #7
10. Stem*
11. Mouth
12. Eyes and eyelids (I stitched his eyes in the same order that I did Witch's)

*When stitching the stem, it is best to start along a straight edge and not at a point. You can see where I started. You will also find it helpful to decrease the width of your zig-zag stitch when you are stitching the fine points along the edge of the face. Just take a few stitches, decrease the width, take a few more stitches, decrease the width, finish the point, and then start to increase the width gradually.

Well, I hope you are having fun. I sure am! I wanted to get this posted before Nancy and I leave town to teach in Liberal, KS, this weekend, so I'm going to do a third post this month which will cover the satin stitch for the detail lines. I will (hopefully) post that next week. Next month we will work on Werewolf, Cat, and Death, leaving the Mummy for last.

This is a great time to think about your quilt's backing. We have some wonderful Halloween fabric in now or coming soon. We have posted some of it in the store and I blogged about our Quilting Treasure's Happy Halloween fabric line a couple of days ago. I'm thinking that I want the orange skeleton fabric for my backing. You will need 3 1/2 yds for your backing. Check it out to get the best selection. Please leave a comment to let me know if I am helping you, or if I need to give you more detailed information and pictures.

Until next week,

Lynda

Happy Halloween Blog of the Month-Part 3a

Hello Halloween friends,

It's already June and we're on month three of Happy Halloween--my how time flies! Are you able to keep up? If not, these lessons will be here for a long, long, time. Just click on the Halloween Blog of the Month icon on the right side of the blog and bring up all of the lessons. Just remember that they are in newest to oldest order, so scroll down to the first lesson you missed and work up from there.

Meet my new friends--Mr. Pumpkinhead, Witch, and Vampire. By now you know how to prepare and fuse the applique pieces on the LSAS2. I sprayed and ironed the background fabrics with spray starch to stiffen them up so they act as a stabilizer (see last lesson). If you have a kit from us and have misplaced a fabric (darn, I know I saw that darker green fabric somewhere and how can you misplace something when you haven't even moved from the sewing machine?) or just want something different than our choice, feel free to go to your stash and choose something different--I wanted a different fabric for Witch's nose. : ) I used my lined fabrics for all of the eyes, Pumpkinhead's mouth, and Vampire's shirt and fangs.

Again, build smaller sections on your Applique Presser Sheet before combining the pieces together. If you don't have an APS you don't know how much easier life will be with one, or two, or three--three of the best investments ever!!! (I have one at each of my ironing boards).

For Mr. Pumpkinhead build 3 sections: the head wedges and stem, eyes and eyelids*, and the body, neck, and bowtie. After fusing these sections together, use the placement guide to fuse them into place. *I chose to fuse the eye section and the mouth to the pumpkin after I did the buttonhole stitching and because they were lined fabric, the previous stitching did not show through. Mark all detail lines (don't forget to mark the teeth even though the mouth is not yet fused to the head. I used my Sewline black pencil and a sunny window to see the lines--yeah I remembered this time! Fuse Mr. Pumpkinhead to the lightest background.






For Witch build 3 sections: the hat and hatband, the eyes, eyelids, and nose, and hair and head. After fusing the sections together, use the placement guide to fuse them into place. I chose to do the buttonhole on the shirt, before fusing the bat in place. Mark the detail lines and fuse Witch to the 2nd to the darkest fabric.



For Vampire build 3 sections: eyes, eyelids, and nose, head, inner ears, and hair, cape, shirt, collar and tie. Mark the detail lines and fuse Vampire to the 2nd to the lightest fabric.

We are ready again to do the buttonhole stitching. It might be time to change your needle--we have been doing quite a lot of applique. I noticed that my needle had a little fusible goo residue on it, so I cleaned it off. These 3 characters are slightly more complicated than the previous ones, but I know that you can handle them. I'll give you more hints and tips in the next lesson.

I'll also be posting or sending you an email because we are getting in the most wonderful Halloween fabrics that would make great backings for this wonderful quilt. Halloween fabrics can sell out fast and I want you to have the best choice. Check out the blog from May 29th to see the Happy Halloween fabric that we have designed for Quilting Treasures. This fabric will be in soon and I'm having a hard decision about which print I want for my backing.

See you soon,

Lynda